The City

Ahmedabad, Gujarat’s principal city, is one of the major industrial cities in India. It has been called the ‘Manchester of the East’ due to its many textile industries.

History

Over the centuries, Ahmedabad has had several periods of grandeur. It was originally founded in 1411 by Ahmed Shah, from whom the city takes its name, and in the 17^th century was thought to be one of the finest cities in India. Since decades Ahmedabad is known for Gandhiji's Ashram from where he launched the famous "Dandi March" against the Salt Law.

Bhadra Fort & Teen Darawaja

An ancient citadel, the Bhadra, was built by the city’s founder, Ahmed Shah, in 1411 and later named after the goddess Bhadra, an incarnation of Kali. It now houses government offices. One can find a post office in the former palace of Azam Khan, which is within the citadel. To the east of the citadel stands the triple gateway, the Teen Darwaja from where one can watch processions from the palace to the Jama Masjid.

Jama Masjid

Tomb of Ahmed Shah

The tomb of Ahmed Shah, with its perforated stone windows stands just outside the east gate of the Jama Masjid. His son and grandson, who did not long survive him, also have their cenotaphs in this tomb.

Sidi Saiyed’s Mosque

This small mosque, which once formed a part of the city wall, is close to the river end of Relief Rd. It was constructed by Sidi Saiyed, a salve of Ahmed Shah, and is noted for its beautiful carved stone windows, depicting the intricate intertwining of the branches of a tree.

Ahmed Shah’s Mosque

Dating from 1414, this was one of the earliest mosques in the city and was probably built on the site of a Hindu temple, using parts of that temple in its construction. It is to the south-west of the Bhadra. The front of the mosque is now a garden.

Rani Rupmati’s Mosque

A little north of the city center, Rani Rupmati's Mosque was built between 1430 and 1440 and named after the sultan’s Hindu wife. The minarets were partially brought down by the disastrous earthquake of 1819. Note particularly the way the dome is elevated to allow light in and around its base.

Rani Sipri’s Mosque

This small mosque is also known as the Masjid-e-Nagira, or Jewel of a Mosque, because of its extremely graceful and well executed design. Its slender minarets again blend Hindu and Islamic styles, The mosque is said to have been commissioned in 1514 by a wife of Sultan Mahmund Begada after he executed their son for some minor misdemeanour, and she is infact buried there. It’s to the south-east of the city center.

Sidi Bashir’s Mosque & Shaking Minarets

Just south of the railway station, outside the Sarangpur Gate, the Sidi Bashir Mosque is famed for its shaking minarets, or jhulta minars. When one minaret is shaken, the other rocks in sympathy. This is said to be a protection against earthquake damage.

Raj Babi Mosque

The Raj Babi Mosque, south-east of the railway station in the suburb Of Gomtipur, also had shaking minarets, one of which was partially dismantled by an inquisitive Englishman in an unsuccessful attempt to find out how it worked. It is worth a visit but, once again, you are specifically prohibited from shaking the remaining minaret.

Step-Wells

Dada Hari Wav step-wells (wavs of baolis) are strange constructions, unique to northern India, and this is one of the best. The curios well, built in 1501 by one of the women of sultan Begara’s harem, has a series of steps leading down to lower and lower platforms, eventually terminating in a small octagonal well. The depths of the well are cool, even on the hottest day, and it must once have been quite beautiful.

Today, it is completely neglected and often born dry, but it’s a fascinatingly eerie place with galleries above the well and a small portico at ground level. The best time to visit and/or photograph the well is between 10 and 11 am; at other times, the sun is in the wrong place and doesn’t penetrate to the various levels. There’s no entry or camera fee. Behind the well is the equally neglected mosque and rauza (tomb) of Dada Hari. The mosque has a tree motif like the one on the windows of Sidi Saiyad’s Mosque.

Mata Bavani’s Well

This well is a couple of hundred metres north of Dada Hari’s . Ask children to show you the way. Thought to be several hundred years older, it is much less ornate and is now used as a crude Hindu temple.

Kankaria Lake

Museums

The excellent Calico Museum of Textiles exhibits antique and modern textiles including rare tapestries, wall hangings and costumes. Also on display are old weaving machines. The museum is in Sarabhai House, a former haveli (mansion), in the Shahi Bagh Gardens. The N C Mehta Museum of Miniatures at Sanskar Kendra, Paldi, has excellent examples of the various schools of Indian miniature painting. The Shreyas Folk Museum (closed Wednesday), about 2.05 km west of the Sabarmati in the suburb of Ambavadi, displays the folk arts & crafts of Gujarat. The Institute of Indology on the university campus has an important collection of illustrated manuscripts and miniatures and one of the finest collections relating to Jainism in India.

Sabarmati Ashram